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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.